Bhutan’s journey into tourism began in 1974, when the country opened its doors to package tourists, prioritizing sustainable growth and development. Today, with more than 70 per cent of forest cover safeguarded by a vast network of protected areas, Bhutan aspires to become a leading eco-tourism destination, guided by the national tourism policy of “high-value, low-volume.”
But there are some hurdles to overcome.
The government defines eco-tourism as a “responsible travel to natural areas and habitats, which conserves the environment, respects the culture and traditions of its people, and improves the overall well-being of its citizens within the overall concept of ‘Gross National Happiness.’”
Tashi Tenzin, project manager with the Department of Tourism Secretariat, says that besides cultural tourism such as festivals and visits to monasteries, which make up 88 per cent of tourism activities, the department is diversifying in order to attract repeat visitors who return to the same destination one or more times.
“Nature and community-based activities like high-end fly-fishing and birding have the potential to attract young repeat tourists,” Tashi Tenzin says.
This, he says, will not only provide business opportunities but also promote regional development through infrastructure building in other parts of the country.
Currently, trekking is a widely popular nature-based tourism activity in Bhutan. The Department of Tourism’s UN-sponsored eco-tourism project focuses on two key protected areas, Bumdeling and Sakteng wildlife sanctuaries, and extends across five districts in eastern and central Bhutan: Lhuentse, Mongar, Trashigang, Trashi Yangtse and Zhemgang.
“Its primary goal is to stimulate the rural economy by encouraging wildlife-based tourism, generating employment opportunities, and building stronger community ties to nature,” Tashi Tenzin says.
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Eco-tourism provides a unique opportunity for everyone. Urban people can immerse themselves in the rural landscapes, while helping develop rural communities. Such economic opportunities help bridge the socioeconomics gaps between these two communities.
Sangay Thinley, regional head of economic development and marketing, Chhukha district
As part of this initiative, several eco-tourism projects are being developed, including homestays, birdwatching sites, nature-based activities and community festivals.
Flagship species such as endangered red pandas (Ailurus fulgens), Ludlow’s Bhutan Glory butterflies (Bhutanitis ludlowi), endangered Gee’s golden langurs (Trachypithecus geei), endangered golden mahseer fish (Tor putitora), near-threatened black-necked cranes (Grus nigricollis) and other rare birds are identified in these districts.
Research by Dhan B. Gurung of the Royal University of Bhutan and Klaus Seeland, a political scientist and sociologist with ETH Zurich, has shown that visitors drawn to Bhutan’s natural beauty tend to stay longer than those interested in its culture. eco-tourism activities, they argue, could attract younger tourists while benefiting rural communities and supporting Bhutan’s Gross National Happiness goals.
Sangay Thinley, regional head of economic development and marketing in the Chhukha district administration, has been at the forefront of these initiatives. Over the past six years, he has helped establish two community-based eco-tourism sites, including the one in Pachu. He says eco-tourism offers a peaceful retreat for urban visitors, allowing them to reconnect with nature.
Managed by locals, these sites not only showcase the beauty of rural life and biodiversity but also instil a sense of responsibility and pride in the environment among the villagers. “eco-tourism provides a unique opportunity for everyone. Urban people can immerse themselves in the rural landscapes while helping develop rural communities. Such economic opportunities help bridge the socioeconomic gaps between these two communities.”
There are some remaining questions, however. With growing numbers of guests, most of the groups involved in Bhutan’s eco-tourism are facing a big common challenge: waste management.
Wangchuk Dorji, manager of Jigmechhu eco-tourism site, says that with an increasing number of visitors, there is increased waste produced at the site, particularly plastics.
“We can currently manage the waste produced at the site by giving it away to waste collectors,” he says. But, as waste dealers only collect items that can be sold for recycling, the site’s management team has to burn the rest, releasing heavy metals and toxic chemicals into the atmosphere.
Burning plastics releases toxic pollutants, including fine particles and black carbon, which harm health and contribute to climate change. Dangerous chemicals like polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs), polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), dioxins and furans are released, which can cause cancer and disrupt hormones with long-term exposure.
They have installed garbage bins at various locations at the campsite, but due to the remoteness of the place, there are no garbage pickup trucks. This leaves communities to deal with the waste on their own, often resulting in open burning.
Another challenge for communities: an increase in climate-induced disasters. For example, communities along river basins have reported erratic changes in the rivers’ water volume. According to camp operators, the threat is more visible for communities living in the lower basins of major rivers, as there are routine risks of flooding and displacement during monsoon season.
Globally, studies show that climate change and development in flood-prone areas will raise river flood risks over time. Without climate action, flood damage could increase sixfold by 2100.
An assessment of the impact of climate change on flood inundation and agriculture in Bhutan’s mountainous Himalayan region concluded that future rainfall is likely to increase, raising the risk of flooding in the country. This could lead to more damage to rice crops, which are vital for many in mountain regions.
“Changing landscapes affect trekking routes, wildlife patterns and the overall visitor experience,” says a member of the eco-tourism group in the south.
Most eco-tourism providers also struggle with poor and limited infrastructure, accessibility, product diversification, promotion and marketing and service standards. But overall, locals say, eco-tourism may offer a viable future.
To build back better from the socioeconomic losses caused by the pandemic, which displaced about 50,000 Bhutanese, the Department of Tourism Secretariat launched several projects to position the country as “a model eco-tourism destination.”
Unofficial records with the District Economic Development and Marketing Officers show there are about 15 eco-campsites across the country. Most of these sites have homestays, birdwatching sites, nature-based activities and community festivals.
Across Bhutan, eco-tourism initiatives are taking root, many driven by the country’s youth and women. Zhemgang district, the least-developed district with the highest number of poor people, aims to become an eco-tourism hub in the “13th Five-Year Plan,” which outlines the country’s development aspirations.
Ecolodges run by young people are becoming a key income source. Zhemgang has five eco-lodges, providing services such as lodging, birding guides, local product sales (cane and bamboo) and camping services, run by young people.
Employment for youth and women
Half of Bhutan’s population is under the age of 25. But, in recent years, young people have migrated to urban areas seeking better opportunities. As city residents face issues of unemployment, substance abuse and petty crime, rural farms are left abandoned. The country’s youth unemployment rate was 15.9 per cent as of 2023. To address the youth unemployment challenge, most of the eco-tourism initiatives have involved young people in strategic conservation areas.
Perched along the scenic Mangdechhu riverbank in Zhemgang, the Berti Ecolodge offers a peaceful retreat from the everyday rush. With tranquil surroundings and the soothing sounds of nature, it’s a perfect spot for nature lovers.
Operated by a group of seven women in their late 20s, the campsite provides an authentic getaway for birders looking for “lifers” such as the critically endangered white-bellied heron (Ardea insignis), of which Bhutan is home to 25 individuals. The Mangdechhu River Basin along which Berti is located has the second-highest population of these rare birds.
A member of the group, Dorji Wangmo, turned to ecolodge work after a failed farming business.
“The first five months have been promising,” Dorji Wangmo says.
Since December 2023, the lodge has hosted 12 official meetings and welcomed around 35 visitors, including eight foreigners. Members share 65 per cent of their income, while 35 per cent is saved for the lodge, with 2 per cent dedicated to the Berti community.
Each member earns 15,000 Bhutanese ngultrum (about US$180) a month, enough to support a rural family. They also receive an additional 5,000 Ngultrum (US$60) from the Youth Engagement and Livelihood Programme.
The impact of the ecolodge extends beyond its walls. Local farmers find a marketplace for their farm produce, mainly dairy and vegetables. The camp purchases livestock and agricultural products from Berti farmers and also helps to sell the surplus to their guests.
In the same region, the River Guides of Panbang is Bhutan’s first community-based rafting company, started by a group of 11 young people decades ago. They rely on riding the waves of Mangde Chhu and Drangme Chhu, two of the country’s largest rivers flowing through Panbang in Zhemgang.
Besides rafting, they provide other adventure tourism activities such as fishing and biking, wildlife safaris, jungle drives, naturalist walks and overnight stays at their Marang Jungle Lodge.
They also engage with Marangdut people, a subsistence farming community with 22 households and a population of about 105 people. The group gives hands-on training on how to grow vegetables in the natural environment with minimal use of chemical fertilizers.
The subtropical zone is favourable for growing a number of vegetables such as potatoes, chiles, okra and bitter gourd, among others. The group also creates awareness on health and sanitation. This includes maintenance of personal hygiene such as hand-washing, safe handling and storage of drinking water, safe food handling, and awareness on prevention of common waterborne and vector-borne diseases, like diarrhoea and malaria.
They help people earn income from sustainable livelihood programs like bamboo crafts, for which the region is famous. “We also educate the students from local schools in rafting and birdwatching too,” member Thinley Dorji says.
When five women from Phobjikha Ramsar site in central Bhutan joined culinary training, they had no idea it would lead to managing a campsite in Gangtey-Phobjikha. Delighted by the opportunity, they eagerly took charge of the Gangtey-Phobjikha Eco-Camp, the only community-run campsite in the area.
Ranging in age from 24 to 33, they each bring unique backgrounds to the venture. Though circumstances kept them from continuing their studies, the eco-camp has given them a sense of independence and empowerment.
The women fondly recall their humble beginnings in 2022, laughing about the time they hosted guests without getting paid. Since then, they’ve welcomed around nine groups from within and outside Bhutan.
Their close proximity to Thimphu, the capital city of Bhutan, has made the destination the most visited site in the country. The campsite features stacked rock slate walls, a gravel footpath and a welcoming canopy for hosting guests. Women greet visitors with khadar, an auspicious white scarf, and offer tents for accommodation if needed. For a traditional dining experience, guests can enjoy authentic Bhutanese cuisine cooked on a traditional stove in the kitchen.
But their role is more than just looking after the campsite. They are the guardians of a high-altitude wetland, an area of about 162 square kilometres (62.5 square miles) in the sparsely populated area of Gangtey and Phobjikha and parts of Bjena and Athang subdistricts. The valley is a wintering ground for the black-necked crane.
Supported by various organizations, including the Wangduephodrang Forest Division and Bhutan for Life, the campsite was established with infrastructure and training assistance. “We have to manage the site, handle waste responsibly and educate the community about the importance of wetland conservation,” says Nim Bidha, a member of the group. For example, they encourage proper disposal of waste by practising reducing, recycling and reusing waste materials.
They want to be a model eco-tourism site that contributes to conservation of the pristine natural environment of the Gangtey-Phobjikha Valley and protect the crane’s habitat. Moreover, as custodians of the wetland, they provide dedicated space for visitors to camp during their stay, Nim Bidha adds.
In 2022, the group earned more than US$1,000 with monthly visitors of more than seven groups.
Community lifelines
These initiatives are more than just businesses; they are lifelines for communities that have faced economic and social challenges, particularly in the wake of the pandemic.
As Sangay Thinley reflects on the progress made, he notes that developing an eco-tourism site is a gradual process that requires careful steps over time. The transformation of the Jigmechu site, once a ghost town, into a thriving community, is proof of what can be achieved when locals are empowered to take charge of their own development, he says. “When I first visited the site, the town was deserted.”
The campsite is now bringing the town back to life, attracting visitors and boosting the local economy. A 56-year-old Aum Kaam has seen her hometown transform from a small village into a bustling trading centre, then fall into decline and now begin to revive. She provides a hotstone bath service for campsite visitors. Some have opened restaurants and started commercial farming to cater to the campsite.
The eco-tourism site was developed in 2020 as a flagship tourism project, along the banks of the Wangchhu River Basin in the southwestern district of Chhukha at an elevation of 180 meters (590 feet). Wangchuk Dorji and six other members from Jigmechhu and neighbouring villages have been operating the site, ensuring that all revenue goes directly to them and their families.
The group is also helping curb rampant illegal fishing in the area, which has surged in recent years, threatening the fish population in this eco-tourism hotspot, which is home to more than 300 bird species, including the critically endangered white-bellied heron. Jigmechhu is famous for being one of the best fishing spots, with sightings of the golden mahseer, a species that is globally in decline.
Wangchuk Dorji says that despite its designation as a high-end recreational fishing spot, which prohibits community capture fisheries, around 20 locals still engage in illegal fishing. Some of them depend entirely on fishing for their livelihood and use harmful methods such as dynamite, electrocution, nets and poison to catch fish, which are either consumed or sold in the local market.
“The community members ensure that no such activities take place, and report to the officials,” he says, while hoping that meaningful engagement in eco-tourism-related activities will deter agriculture-dependent people from illegal fishing.
Jigmechhu is renowned for its rich biodiversity and captivating natural sites. There are also other nearby attractions such as Jigmechhu Ami Ney, a pilgrimage site revered by both the Hindu and Buddhist faiths. A 2020 assessment report identified Jigmechhu as one of the most attractive natural sites with rich biodiversity coverage and huge potential to bring about economic development in the dzongkhag (district).
The Tourism Flagship Programme also identified Jigmechhu as an eco-tourism destination with about US$1.7 million investment to promote tourism for balanced regional development. In March 2023, the Ministry of Home Affairs approved the Jigmechhu eco-tourism campsite as a formal international tourist destination, and in the same year, the site won the “Most Performing Community Tourism Destination” award at the fifth Himalayan Hospitality and Tourism Awards in Siliguri, India.
Sangay Thinley says it has been a learning journey for everyone involved at the site: They’re becoming more prosperous and better at communicating. “This experience has given me the chance to collaborate with various agencies, including the government, donors and international organizations,” he says.
Moreover, it has put these communities on the development map, attracting diverse funding sources and elevating discussions at the national level.
Chhukha district has become a model for others, with many districts now replicating its success as they recognize the power of community involvement. “I’m proud of the impact we’ve made,” Sangay Thinley says.
This story was published with permission from Mongabay.com.
